Our first sighting of Lucky Bay was so impressive, we kept stopping the car to take photos before we even got to the campsite. Lucky Bay was named by Matthew Flinders when he found shelter from a summer storm here during his navigation of the Recherché Archipelago in the HMS Investigator in1802. The next bay along, Thistle Bay , was named for the Ship’s Master, John Thistle, when they found fresh water there. We are in Cape Le Grand National Park and it is stunningly beautiful. White sand beaches ((scientifically proven the whitest in Australia, apparently), turquoise and dark blue water, and amazing rock formations. We are already seeing some lovely wild flowers and there are kangaroos pottering around the camp site and sunning themselves on the beach. Feels a lot like Paradise. Tomorrow we will move on to Cape Arid N Park and camp nr Dolphin Cove which is supposed to be, perversely, a great spot for whale watching. Our next stop after that will be Stokes N Park. It is actually quite difficult to progress along the coast because we are constantly seduced by advice and stories from other travellers and the constant refrain of ‘You can’t miss ……./ You must see ……..etc. We have already decided we will have to come back. 3 months is too short!
It is great to be independent in the van, without the need for power. We can enjoy the national parks and stay at caravan parks when we want to do some laundry etc. We feel we have the best of both worlds.
We fall asleep to the sound of the waves rolling into the bay.
Cape Le Grand NP to Cape Arid NP
There are 17 caravan sites at the National Park camping ground at Cape Arid and we have it all to ourselves. We are perched up on the headland with a sweeping view of a glorious bay where, this afternoon, we could see a number of Southern Right Whales cavorting in the waves about 50m from shore. We discovered that we could even see them from our bed in the van. Not bad value for the grand sum of $13.20/night. We feel very lucky to be able to easily access such a magnificent place. Thank goodness the coast is available to everyone and not lined with hotels and resorts.
The whales come up from sub-arctic waters to calve and are most numerous May/June but there are still large numbers to be seen, including mothers and their calves. Whales have VERY LARGE babies (ouch) but since all the mums choose the water birth option, maybe it is not too bad!
I am already running out of superlatives to describe this coastline and we are only a few weeks into our trip. I might have to devise a private rating system for the future.
Photos Lucky Bay and Dolphin Cove
- Lucky Bay
- Whale watching at Dolphin Cove – mother and calf ( and Jenny in the red jacket)
Photos from Cape Bauer and Head of Bight
- Geoff at Cape Bauer
- Long, but worthwhile, climb down to the blowhole
- The waves that produce the dragon’s roar from the blowhole
- Head of Bight. There where whales but looked the size of goldfish.
- Road sign for tourists to photograph.
I am getting a bit better at the photos. Should be – we have been in Macca’s all morning.
Waiting for a call from Ford to say that the car is ready and we will be off to the national park.
Lovely to have fresh food again although very expensive. Once everything is confiscated at the quarantine station nr. Eucla there is no opportunity to stock up again for a few days. Business opportunity, Someone! The roadside stops on the Nullabor are dispirited places specialising in fried food and you can’t get a decent coffee. 2 half-decent coffees cost $9.60 at the BP Roadhouse at Norseman. Apparently Norseman is named for a horse which pawed the ground and turned up gold-bearing quartz for its owner. We have had no such luck as yet.
Streaky Bay & crossing the Nullabor.
We loved Streaky Bay and could have stayed longer, but I suspect that we are going to say that about a lot of places. We were able to have a lazy day and catch up on washing etc and we also drove out to Cape Bauer, which is spectacular. We watched the waves crashing in, followed by the roar of the blowhole which sounded like a fire-breathing dragon. Saw Crimson Chats flitting across the dunes and there were two Night Herons roosting in the caravan park. Geoff went for a ride to the back beach in the evening and we had fish and chips for dinner. The King George Whiting is delicious.
The next time we have reasonable internet access I will upload some more photos.
Sunday 31st we left Streaky Bay and drove all day to an off-road free camping spot about 40km short of the WA border. We were perched up on high cliffs with the huge vista of The Great Southern Ocean spread out in front of us. Sadly, no whales to be seen, but we did see some at Head of Bight along the way. All was calm when we made camp but gale-force winds blew in overnight, which meant little sleep. The first of geoff’s trips outside (in his jocks) was to unlock the pop-top so that we could bring the top down just in case it ripped off. Second trip was to turn off the gas because we realised we couldn’t run the fridge on gas with the roof down. Third trip was to actually clip the roof down. Fourth and final sortie was to remove the securing tapes from the awning arms because they were flapping around and driving us nutS. It was quite a night!
Diesel at the Nullabor Roadhouse $1.99/l. Fuel costs rather alarming.
Coffin Bay
We spent Wednesday night at Coffin Bay, which was really lovely. It was our first night in a national park without facilities, except for drop toilets, and everything in the van worked well. I was even able to have a hot shower. We walked up to the Yangie Bay Lookout before exploring the rest of the park and setting off for Streaky Bay. A taste of things to come – 300 km of straight road and fairly unvaried scenery. We have a beach front site at Streaky Bay, a few metres from the water, and we can here the swooshing of the waves. Very soothing. There are lots of pelicans here and they are pretty relaxed so I have been able to get quite close. They are truly magnificent birds.
Leaving Port Lincoln
Yesterday was wildlife day. We saw a stumpy-tailed lizard on the road and stopped to have a look and encourage him to sun bake somewhere else. As I moved around him, trying to shepherd him to safety, he spun around with me, all flaring mouth and blue tongue – 8 ins of fury. My return to the car to fetch the camera eventually galvanised him into action ( he obviously knows what crap photos I take), and he scuttled off into the undergrowth, no doubt to return later to be squashed.
in the afternoon we went to Lincoln Nat Park and saw a black snake, an emu and the distant turquoise and blue flash of a Port Lincoln Parrot. It was a lovely afternoon and we bought fresh fish on the way home to have with stir-fried vegs. The previous day’s culinary tour-de-force was beautiful, fresh prawns cooked with garlic, chilli, white wine, lemon & parsley served on angel hair pasta topped with dressed rocket. Sooooo good!
We left the Port Lincoln caravan park this morning and we are waiting on a few repairs to the caravan before we drive to Coffin Bay. We said goodbye to our lapwing, who produced another egg while we were there. The male and female Masked Lapwing are indistinguishable from one another so I don’t know which one is doing the lion’s share of the egg-sitting, but I have my suspicions! Our insomniac honey eater continued to serenade us every night.
It’s a good job there aren’t too many Gen Xers about because they would all be making gagging motions, listening to all the smug old-farts exchanging self- congratulatory comments like … How good is this? Is this Paradise or what?, It’s a hard life, eh? and You wouldn’t be dead for quids! We join in!
Bonjour from the Ravenscrofts
We left Adelaide on Saturday. We spent our last day visiting the Art Gallery and the Botanic Gardens, which are smaller than Melbourne’s, but just as lovely. We were lucky enough to get tickets
for the footy on Friday night (at least we thought we were lucky!). Geoff was keen to see the refurbished Oval, and it is magnificent, but it was a terrible match – Port Adel
aide
v Carlton – and Port supporters are FERAL! It was a record crowd of 52,000 and the roar from the crowd when their team came onto the ground sounded like a Grand Final. Carlton played incredibly badly and the chorus of boos when they went for goal probably didn’t help. It can,t feel good to know that 51,500 of the 52,000 strong crowd hates you! We left at half- time and had a long walk to the bus top. Buses for footy-goers are free in Adelaide, which I think is a great idea.
We spent Sat night in Port Augusta, very much a stop-over town, although there is a great place called the Wadlater Outback Centre which we visited. You could spend a whole day there without any effort. Marvellou
s displays, films etc. focussing on the history, geological and otherwise, of the Flinders Ranges area. I especially enjoyed the dreamtime stories which offer explanations for all the natural features of the are.
We are now in Port Lincoln for 3 nights although we may stay forever. The weather is lovely and we are looking out over Boston Bay. We had delicious, fresh fish for dinner at Del Giorno’s and intend to eat as much seafood as we can over the next few weeks. This is a terrific caravan park with lots of birds, including a New Holland Honeyeater with a screwed- up body clock which sang all night. I can’t believe he didn’t drop from exhaustion (unless he was a part of a team, working shifts). There is also, extraordinarily, a Masked Lapwing sitting on one mottled, pale-green egg in a shallow depression in the gravel about 2 metres from the base of our nearest rotary clothesline and surrounded by activity. She is unfazed by company as long as you don’t go any closer than about a metre, when she starts posturing and protesting. I hope there are no cats around. In Adelaide there was a Rainbow Lorikeet nesting in the burnt-out shell of a 400 yr-old river red gum, just behind
our van. Doing well in the bird department, which makes me happy.
Off to Coffin Bay tomorrow. Geoff is looking forward to eating fresh oysters.
The Journey Begins
Greetings from Adelaide.
We left Melbourne a couple of days later than planned because Jenny was laid up with a nasty flu- like virus, but she is now well and looking forward to our 3-month exploration of The West.
We spent our first night in Nhill, with the obligatory stop at Lowan Crafts ( not to be missed). The lovely ladies of Nhill, and possibly the lovely gentlemen as well, bake beautiful sponges, biscuits and slices to sell fresh in the shop each day and they are delicious. You can also take the opportunity to stock up on covered coat hangars and crocheted knee rugs.
In Adelaide we are staying at the Brownhill Creek Caravan Park which is located in a beautiful little valley not far from the city. Today we took a picnic lunch to McLaren Vale, which is looking gorgeous with all the almond trees in blossom. There is an elegant piazza in the middle of McLaren Vale, established by the Italian Heritage community, celebrating their unique contribution to the area. There are many lovely sentiments engraved in the stone steps about leaving home for a new land. Imagine Australia without Italians and their lovely food!
Things I wish I hadn’t missed? Geoff, about to turn the shower on and realising he had forgotten his soap, doing a naked dash to the basins to collect some liquid soap in each hand!

































