We met our friend Richard in Reims and the next morning we visited Cathedrale Notre-dame where people have worshipped for 1,500 years. This magnificent cathedral was nearly destroyed in 1914 when it was shelled and fire destroyed woodwork and shattered statues. It took 20 years to restore the pitiful wreck which it had become. Few of the ancient stained glass windows endured (many had already disappeared in the 18th century in an effort to let in more light), but there are now many glorious new windows, designed by modern artists, including Marc Chagall. The famous figure of the smiling angel (dare I say smirking angel) lost her head during the war but she is restored to full health. Sadly, we didn’t have enough time to do the Mumm champagne tour and I love champagne.